It
is difficult to miss this corvid that inhabits along the Shivalik, and rather
common in the upper reaches. A striking looking large bird that appears
straight out of fairytale. Red-billed Blue Magpie aka Urocissa Eythrorhyncha
has everything that is arresting to the sight – a mix of red, purple, blue,
white, orange, black and what not, add a long blue white corrugated tail and
you get magpie of the hills!
Found
this pretty one delectably placed against the faint sun on a morning walk,
along the downhill of Dhanpo village that had a patch of jungle. The mountains
hills are stripped of trees, I was told that the hills here had huge trees once
but were logged and transported to Delhi during colonial period. Wondering how
they transported these all the way to delhi? The serpentine river Yamuna, the
faint roar that I could hear, hold the key. During monsoon the in spate river
was also carrying loads of premium cargo that were properly tagged as it reached
the plains.
Dhanpo: Jaunsari hamlet in the
hills
Dhanpo
is a quaint little tribal hamlet near to Lakhwad village ensconced in lower
Himalayas. It’s about three hours from Dehradun, towards Chakrata. Public
transport system is minimal; I had to travel on the top of a jeep on a road
that had deep ravines on one side and a determinantly vicious driver on the
wheel. Not for faint hearts!! Narayan Singh Tomar is popularly referred to as
Netaji, and he surely is one, was the person I contacted over phone. A man who
immensely enjoys talking, talking may not be the right word but monologue as if
he is addressing a gathering. He needs cue to start during which he will
observe you closely from toe to head and may even exchange pleasantry with passerby, to make it worse, can meander away from the issue in focus and
return at will. To his favour I must add
the man has zest and energy of a doer, an organizer. He amply demonstrates these during get
together. He introduced me to the gathering “as the man who will take Dhanpo to
the world through computer” and performed the enviable task of explaining
internet to largely illiterate audience. This included distorting his hand into
representation of a globe and moving his finger to and fro as if to explain whereall
Dhanpo will be heard, to an awe struck audience. I, in the meanwhile, was
making keen attempts to sink into ground via underneath the table!!
This
is Jaunsari-Bawar belt, and Dhanpo is a Jaunsari tribe settlement. Jaunsari is
a corrupted name of Jamnapar, as Jaunsar region is on the other side of Yamuna
river. I tried my best to know about Jaunsari tribes from the inhabitant but
the information is sketchy. Few days later I visited Anthropological Survey of
India library at Dehradun and gathered few information from various books.
Jaunsaris are mainly concentrated in Dehradun region; they are combination of various groups of polyandrous community (that includes Koltas, Bajgis and Khasas) living in geographical region. They speak Jaunsari which belongs to the family of Indo-Aryan languages, they also know Hindi. Till recently fraternal polyandry was in practice. What makes Jaunsari tribes interesting is the belief that they are descendent of Pandavas, as fraternal polyandry has been existing for ages until ofcourse the Hindu marriage act!! They are primarily dependent on agriculture and animal husbandry. In the pecking order the Khasas are at the top, and acquire Hindu caste influence, therefore play a dominant role in matters. Khasas are land owning, the other sections, in particular Koltas, were treated as bonded labours, indeed till recently prohibited from owning land therefore exploited. I was reading that a study conducted in 1980s found that 31 villages in Jaunsar-Bawar belt had instances of Kolta women trafficked to the plains by Khasas (Dr.DPS Khanna, Garhwal Univeristy). Though patriarchal, women play an important role most likely as an influence of once prominent polyandry. A day later I was up hill at Chakrata talking to Mr Kriparam Joshi, a retired principal of school and a man of immense knowledge about the culture of the place, who informed that Jaunsari tribes are the one of the few tribes in India who actively practices casteism, as Hindus do. He referred to it as bad influence as has happened with Christians and Muslims. Funnily as Jaunsaris are tribes they enjoy the status of ST so we have strange combination of “Brahmin Tribe” while the lower sections of Jaunsaris enjoy the status of both ST and SC. They mostly chose SC status for less competition in jobs, as the reservation is about 17% while ST is only 8%.
Though Jaunsaris are classified as Hindu
tribes they don’t worship Hindu gods, preferring their own God, principal one
being Mahasu. Neither in the characteristic of gods nor in the manner of
worship have much semblance with Hindu practices, animal sacrifices are
common. Polyandry now seems nonexistent,
though interaction with children at the village I gathered they refer aunts as
mothers and so on. The only story that I gathered from the talk on Jaunsari was
about their god Kailu, a temple located at the top of the hill. Kailu is a
warrior god with sword in his hand. It so happened that many centuries ago a
tyrant ruled the region, he asked for human sacrifice. The villagers were fed
up and looked for savior. They were prophesized by power from above of a
warrior in Kashmir but as they took the journey they realized there really
isn’t any help. One day from the ant mound a figurine emerged who was to be
their god and savior.
The
older traditional houses are double storey wooden and rather striking, though
cavernous they keep the house warm in winter. Dhanpo has to its credit a
tradition of what is now described as Organic farming. It is not a concept (which
a news report –indeed BBC –was quoted as saying has no much nutrition
difference than pesticide induced food!!) but a way of life. It is integrated
in the outlook towards life. Every home has cows, buffaloes and goats; these
are collectively assigned a space on the outskirts of the village. Each family
has a shed called gowshala. It helps
in that the village is maintained clean while defecate from the animals are
easily collected and converted into manure. This then is distributed to plots
that 40 odd families, that consists the village, hold for cultivation. There is
also vermiculture pits, I was shown around by Ms Meena Devi who also is the
President of SHG, she explained on medicinal values of some plants. 
Women of the village have taken
the initiative to create a group called Durga
Mahila Swyam Seva Samooh, the guest house where i stayed runs under their
aegis. The women are refreshingly open and not unduly alarmed interacting with
strangers. Most likely they haven’t really travelled in Delhi metros where the
local guardians of government keep blaring every few seconds “not to talk to
strangers” and so we have “all strangers” looking up and down with grim faces,
no courtesy, no smile…ah back in the city. You will be a dead soul if this enters
your being. And so a stranger dying on the street is just a stranger, from this
pits also emerge self serving bleeding hearts, the paratroopers of issues!
Delhi government is very clear on how to create ideal citizens. Though I
understand the risks involved with strangers but these are never norms as is
being attempted. 
For once I too was quite comfortable and
relaxed, with trusting people around there is peace in the being. Though
initially I too was apprehensive and discomfited by easy nature of people,
slowly it dawned that this is real, and I am in a very real world. And so while
you have your dinner the women will gather around, ask a line about taste of
food, as they discuss among themselves their private matters in jaunsari
language. The unfortunate fallout of being on the quieter part of the human
spectrum of social skills is that very soon you are nonexistent. But they were
considerate to drop in a line like ‘aur
kha lo’ ‘acha laga’ and so on.
Though must add later I insisted on quieter surroundings and lesser people. On
a late night I also had an experience of about a dozen women coming for a
visit, they carried grains and lentils as gift. Anyone visiting Dhanpo (and
they must) should be open to any kind of surprise. The facilities at the room
are minimal but decent, the view is great, food is homely and yes organic. So
if you are in Dehradun or Mussorie drop into Dhanpo for a day or two, and enjoy
the hospitality of tribes of Himalayas, and ofcourse salubrious climate.
The video posted at http://youtu.be/WNukDWzvuwo is a
night of get together that was arranged at the janmilan hall, wherein the women
exhibited their zest for life and rhythm. What is incredible is that they are
multifaceted…indeed these words are created. People are hardworking and do
their work with dedication so in the morning you see them tending animals,
carrying manure, climbing trees to cut leaves so on by mid noon they are
cooking some really tasty food and later they are singing and dancing!!
Post
script: things
go wrong…
The above piece was written on
the third day of my stay, I was about to leave but then I extended it by a day.
The problem could be that, Indian villages are romantic getaway only for few
days then the reality of surroundings barge in. Few kids happen to visit me
where I was staying, while the regular kids were around. I asked about them,
the kid shrugged, winced and said in appalling manner that they are from harijan basti. Little above Dhanpo is a
few metres of no-man’s-land lies Harijan
basti. It almost looks the same except that they are smaller and quieter,
yes cleaner. Though small children are seen running around but I found teenage
children and youngsters quieter lot. Elders subdued and avoided direct eye
contact. I informed one of the elderly ladies who served me food and interacted
everyday, about the appalling behavior of the kid. Till that moment a charming
lady, she spewed “we never take food from them. I will never eat food prepared
by them”. I said that is not right. A man who till now rarely spoke, shy
manners, was regular presence found his voice and said vigorously “that is how
god made them, they are no equals”. No wonder the kids treat these unfortunate
children with such dislike, it is the elders who give the cue. Suddenly the
pretty village, charming people and tasty food all got bitter for me. I don’t
blame Dhanpo, it is only a microcosm of what is nasty India. These are the
manners and attitude that is extended and seen in different contexts and views
at the national level. The nasty India carries the seeds of incredibly mediocre
India. As long as nasty India exists whatever pretensions Indians have at the
high table of international relations about their caliber it will be just not
enough since it is a byproduct of bias and cruelty. Such demarcations of villages
on the basis of castes, these brahminical references should be made illegal.
They created egotistic zombies out of otherwise ordinary compassionate people.
And yes anyone visiting Dhanpo must also visit this section and enjoy their
hospitality. I am sure no one has monopoly on hospitality and humbleness!!
Despite these problems I
reiterate you must visit Dhanpo atleast for the lead women have taken, their
incredible passion for life and all the living that surrounds them. There is a
quintessential compassion for life that is typically Indian. Dhanpo should be
in the itinerary for anyone visiting Gharwal.
And yes in dance and celebration everyone come together…
