Rufous Treepie of Banjaar Tola

Banjaar Tola is a luxury stay ("sophistication in simplicity") adjacent to Kanha wildlife sanctuary run by Taj Safari that this blogger had the good fortune to stay as part of Naturalist training. It was an amazing experience but i had to abandon in between due to various reasons main being emphasis on hospitality the magnitude of which this blogger didn’t foresee, wouldn’t say anticipate, ingratiating mannerism is something i am never been comfortable. It makes my blood boil when somebody mentions terms like Mother Tongue Influence (popularly referred to as MTI in call centre circuit), understanding that it is a requirement of these jobs but the honchos at call centres-who seem to be the real culprit- need to understand that this is nothing short of derogatory, it’s hitting the roots. It is a degrading aspirational construct that this blogger has always stridently protested. My mother tongue can never be my bad influence that i need to shed. Who has the monopoly over good English? Clearly these are decided by commerce combined by other utilitarian concerns. Nevertheless i wonder with more Indians travelling abroad do i see Brits learning Indian accent (or as some regrettable would say MTI), or is it that it is we who always has to do the catching up business. Since these factors seem important in certain kinds of job profile why don’t term it as “Client Accent Acclimatisation” or something on that line. I demand it. 

Coming back to Banjaar Tola- i am not in a position to reveal too much detail due to code, but can say that anyone interested to become Naturalist should definitely go for it. Well arranged and located in sylvan surroundings of Sal forest it couldn’t be better. 

Tempting providence is not my idea of displaying team skills, wonder how they conceptualise these daring stunts that is nothing but foolhardy. This blogger is out for intellectual challenge, indeed i have been in the open for last 15 years or so. I don’t put myself in physical risk knowingly, caution is my byword and if there is enough logic and reason i don’t mind body going through the grind. I have travelled to worst of places in worst of conditions in past many years but keeping prudence as fulcrum. The brilliance of jumping from a tall tree or simply jumping around –it comes in various forms and it seems to give thrill to the performer i am told- that defines attempts on alpha male machismo or is it mind over matter by city folks, these imbecile acts least amuses this blogger. I have seen many of these characters dying or maiming themselves around me. And those who have survived haven’t shown any signs of deeper understanding let alone even introspect their habits!! It seems connected to some vague indulgence on confidence...well if your job profile needs then maybe. Like for instance Army, Security guards so on. Otherwise it cannot be denied that this is a senile act bordering sadism; it shows lack of awareness and respect for oneself, pity. Cheap thrills nothing much and it is catching on in big cities. Basic fitness of body is more important and when real crisis in life comes survival instinct should take care. For some it is a luxury to put body at risk, for some it is a way of life their survival depends on it, but not being aware of consequence is referred to as being irresponsible not daring. Dare to deconstruct the mind, the social structure/institutions ...that is where the challenge is. Body is nothing, challenging it is waste of time. These might make a good script for Hollywood action but nor real people (nor animal) go for unnecessary risking their life or damaging their body. For that matter even the Hollywood actors don’t!! They aint stupid dude!! Body is evolved to protect and explore mind, vice versa is primal, even great explorers had motive and purpose for which body was alibi. Darwin did say evolution is a process didn’t he...well you see people dangling down the ladder and you know how right was Darwin! 

For a person like me-who is precariously perched, even a minor mishap can be devastating, a serious setback, since my fallback options are limited i have to be vigilant. I prefer the challenge of Derrida to Bunty’s getting high on bungee or driving fast. Classifying naivety as trusting team potential was the funniest part of the exercise by “Bangalore team”. Further i am not into team, though these seem like basic corporate requirement (the fitting in herd) that is exaggerated as raison de entre for living!! This blogger is comfortable with himself. Full stop. 

Everything said and done it was a good experience, morning walks and sitting silently in the jungle were highlights. Identifying different species and jotting down for further references as also presentations on various animals was something worth cherishing, things i thoroughly enjoyed (Dholes have become my favourite. Tigers can take a break!!). My fascination for spiders has just got emboldened. I was an amateur and glimpsing some professionals at work was revealing experience. This blogger expresses his gratitude and appreciation for the people at Taj Safari for providing me the opportunity. My thanks also go to Ratna, Narayan, Ashish, Payal...it was too short and a scurry to get to know you guys.

There was one bird we got to see on a daily basis and woke with its calls was no doubt Rufous Tree pie. A very common bird around here, others include Orioles, Roller, Drongo and yes the little sparrows are back dear. Rufous Treepie is a rather longish looking bird with sooty head and neck, rufous overalls. An arboreal bird, strictly resident they are found in pairs, they have sweet call as also a harsh one that is used for alarm call. Though found near human habitats-partial to gardens- they are shy of human presence and could be located while they flee from one branch to another. Diet includes fruits, berries, insects, lizards. To the aware Treepies are known to point out the presence of tigers and leopards.

The Gonds of Central India: wai papa lala !!!

Gonds, are the largest tribal group not only in India but all over south Asia, they are spread across the hilly regions of Deccan region (geographically central part of India), spread across UP Gonda district and north Bihar to Andhra Pradesh, and from Maharashtra to Orissa. Gonds established their political power, founded states and exercised influence far and wide. There were as many as four separate Gond kingdoms in the Gondwana region mentioned in medieval accounts, extending across modern day Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh. 

Gond is a name used by non tribals, meaning forest dweller that was used by Telegu speakers but Gond 's prefer to call themselves Koya or Koitur. Language used is Gondhi (Kui) that belongs to Dravidian family of languages, but most Gonds are bilingual or trilingual using Hindi, Telegu or Marathi. 

Gonds are divided into four groups (or sagas): Nalven, Siven, Sarven, and Erven) from these hundreds of clans have sprung up like Raj Gond (aristocrats, mostly concentrated in Adilabad district of AP), Naik gond, Bada Maria, Chotta Maria (this group doesn’t consume milk product as milking is a taboo for them), Jhare Gond, Mannewar, Mana (confined to Maharashtra), Bison Horn Maria (because of their headdress, i need add here that technically there are no Bison in India, it is a

Gaur), Naikpod (they consider themselves as descendant of Bhima of pandavas, mostly settled cultivators), Dheria (since women of this group place the end of saree on left shoulder, dheria means left), Sonjhari, Thoti, Dhulia (have lost their mother tongue, Gondi. They now use bundelkhandi), Kandra, Khatola, Sabaria (Telegu gonds), Thatia (cattle herders) and so on ... each of these have numerous clans. The picture herein is that of an elderly Gond lady collecting tendu (tobacco) leaves near kanha (bandriya tola to be specific) Madhya Pradesh. 

Gonds worship a high god named Baradeo (literally big god), who oversees activities of lesser gods, though respected the devotion of Gonds is reserved to their clan deities. Each Gond clan has its Persa Pen, who protects all clan members. The Persa Pen is essentially good but can be dangerous and violent. Many Gonds believe that when a Pardhan (bard) plays his fiddle, the deity's fierce powers can be controlled. Gonds also believe that spirits delve in hills, rivers and trees. Gonds understanding of medicinal values of local plants is legendary. Many aspects of Gond’s festival and rituals are heavily influenced by Hinduism (sanskritisation?) the obvious one being Dushera but they emphasis on singing and dancing.  Animals are sacrificed during rituals and meat consumed, liquor from dried mahua flowers is also quite popular. 

One of the most discussed and talked about practice among Gonds (confined to Muria Gond tribes) is “Ghotul system” (sociologists referred to it as Dormitory system), many take the instance of this practice as not only uniqueness of this tribe but also signs of advancement and egalitarian nature of society (though it need be pointed that gond community is highly stratified). In Ghotul system, the unmarried young boys and girls live together in separately made huts and allowed to intermingle. It is basically meant for teenagers and acts as a sort of recreation centre where they dance and dine together for marital selection and understanding of mates. If everything is fine and both of them are happy, they can get out of the Ghotul and marry. The Ghotul system is mainly practiced among the Muria Gonds and the origin of this system is related with their goddess ‘Lingopan’. It also need be added here that in Gonds marriages the groom has to pay bridal price to the father of the girl, though they are not matrilineal. Divorce and remarriage are common.

Gond houses are simple structure, the roof supported by bamboo, over which thatch or tiles is laid. House is neatly divided into room and courtyard. There is also a provision for guest room as also room meant for child delivery as also for women to stay during menstruation. I was reading that humble Comb plays an important role in wooing in Gond society, there are also certain rules regarding its use and combing!! During my visit to Gond settlement i found that there is lots of impetus on cleanliness, the houses and vicinity are kept clean and tidy.

Gonds have rich tradition of art and craft which includes body tattooing, floor painting, basket making etc. They are found of music and make musical instruments. They are also proficient in wall painting which they do in red and black on a white background. Gonds have rich oral tradition. Here are few lines wherein Gond hero Lingo is doing penance to please Sambhu Mahadeva to get Gond gods released from cave:

The great God Mahadeva

Felt his seat begin to tremble

Felt his golden stool all shaking

From the penance of our lingo

Felt and wondered who on earth

This devotee was that was fasting

Till his golden stool was shaking

The Pardhans (Bards) play an important and necessary part in Gond social system, they have preserved through their songs the memory of gond heroes and heroines, the story of gond race, its wanderings woes and triumphs. Since very few Gonds know these songs it is customary to call Pardhans on select occasions when the whole community gather to hear them sing accompanied by their Kikri (musical instrument) that last till the early hours of the morning. Pardhans provide history and mythology to Gond race, since Gonds have an understanding of Hindu mythology they act as medium between Hinduism and Gond. All Gond clans have their pardhans who is exposed to know Gond myths in general and history of family of their patrons in particular. Unfortunately since Pardhans were into beef eating they slid in the social structure to the lowest, after independence they are now classified as tribes (in the same clans as Gonds) that helped in their upliftment.

The foundation of new Gond settlement is accompanied by many elaborate rituals. On completion of all the houses Phulgam ritual is performed: a teak tree is felled, a square pointed post was carved in a chosen place (mostly under dondera tree) as the seat of the Aki Pen, the ritual conducted by devari (priest) in the presence of Village Headman (patla). A goat is sacrificed and devari says a prayer

Ige momot niwa puja tungantom;

nar wasi kintom;

mak tsokot panta palam aiana;

kai kal tsokot mandana.

Surd bara warsami niwa puja

tungantom

Translation

Now we perform your rite;

We are founding the village;

Give us good crops;

Let us be good health.

See every twelve years we

Shall perform your rite.

After this a sheep is sacrificed for Village Mother (Natna auwal).

The Dandari dancing is one of the high points of Gond celebrations, about the end of diwali is the joyous time of dandari, there is lot of leisure time, food is plenty and its beginning of cooler season. For two or three weeks after dusherra bands of young people journey from village to village with drums and horns, they welcomed as honoured guests wherever they go. These Dandari dancers carry on the custom initiated by legendary heroes Dundria Raur and Sipiserma Raur, lend sanction by epics from Pradhans

Gudmasur paterate Raur mantor

Tinle kami sile

dhan daulat wirta,

pen sita, batai kami sile.

mak nend pen sita, kami sile,

nend marat yet masar penk

marat putuskat

tandropo taman siwir tadur,

ur pite chauda jank babur

soneta weli sanganter ,

nend pahinidta pir pandta

ura paidas ata

ekwis putralir paidas ater,

paranda jank kuralir paidas ater

Gudmaser Paterat ropo

Nahin nagure nande manter Raurk

urk katoral Pen Bupial katoral

Sirivalaval katora,

Raitar ur manta;

Urk Raurk Patari,

Hirasuka Patari mantor

Nend pen sita, batai kami sile

Translation

In Gudmasur lived Raur,

“Food is not wanting” (he said)

“Wealth we have plenty,

The god gave it, nothing is lacking,

To us the god gave it,

Now the dance gods

Feast we will hold”

Brothers five their grandfathers,

From their loins fourteen fathers,

Theirs were countless offspring.

Then throughout the village

The fruits of wombs were born

Twelve grandchildren born.

In Gudmasur Patera there lived

The tribe of Raur;

Their preist was Pen Bupial

Sirivalaval katora

He was the god;

The Raur folk’s Pardhan

Was Hirasuka.

“By the gods’ grace we are free

from want,

Now let us hold a dance feast

For nothing is lacking”.

It is a long song, the last stanza ....

Ata paja

nend narita yetmasar,

narita mandatir aiar?

weilokna aiweke daiar?

Padmalpuri kaka inta,

bon inta?

Nend Manko, nime akara sar tenda

nime Manko tenda,

mune waio diwos aske

weilokna danadari pesiana,

Nalung sagank,

nalung kumkum

weilo mansa

dandari takana

nalung kumkum ropo

takana taki.

Then (said Padmalpuri);

“Tomorrow as today there will be dances,

But shall for ever only men dance?

Thus said Padmalpuri, the grandmother,

To whom did she say it?

“You Manko, you take the drums out,

You start the dancing,

In all times to come

Woman too will dance the Dandari”

Among the four kin-groups,

Among the four tribes,

Women and men

Dance now the Dandari,

In all the four tribes

The dancing goes on.

Song to be sung (gumela song) during Dandari dancers arrival in a village

Deu setun, duara setun

sati nikun tsaura mai,

mutsa nikun malpa

sati golodam deu golodam,

sati nikun tsaura mai,

mutsa nikun malpa

saga devaru mukdira

wai papa lala,

Bhumi devaran mukdira,

wai papa lala,

Pedda deun mukdira,

wai papa lala,

Bhima deun mukdira

wai papa lala.

With the gods we journey round.

By your grace we don dance dress,

Stooping for you we dance,

Jingling, jingling by god’s grace,

By your grace we don dance dress,

Stooping for you we dance,

Gods of the clan we worship,

wai papa lala,

Earth goddess we worship,

wai papa lala,

Bhimana we worship,

wai papa lala.

This song is a version of myth associated with birth of goddess Jangu bai, as sung by Pardhans. A long one, so i am putting only the first few lines, quite interesting the imaginary...

A spirit was born, Prabhu Niranjan Guru was born,

After his birth, water came into being,

Then spread the water, a mighty ocean

It spread and spirits were born.

After the spirits came earth into being,

The Earth mother and Aktak the father,

Hamran, the grandsire, the daughter Earth,

On water’s surface rose Earth.

Nine parts were water, one part was earth.

In the middle was earth, round it was water;

Then fifty six crores of gods came into being

This a small prayer during ceremonial first sowing...

Sura Dhan lachmi

Sura Dharti mata

mak jawa sim,

yes barai sim,

tala tahtsi sura

look cattle goddess

look Earth mother

give us food

give wealth and good luck

lifting up your head look at us.

Sung on the day before reaping...

Surat mak barkat sim,

Sanalir mirat,

Sasi pen ati, mak barkat sim.

Look, give us good fortune,

All you Departed,

Dying you became gods

Give us good fortune.

A scribble from my pad...

Derrida kills me everyday

May 1996, around noon was his first attack

I was defenceless, the gash deep.

Back in routine the festering thought grew all the while.

One clammy monsoon night the world shifted few inches on one side

then the other side

never settling at the centre, the safer side

was all but gone.

Deconstruction had begun

Back in mother’s womb.